How to make 3D portrait? (Second attempt)
Dear 3D Photo Friend,
Last week I decided to shoot a 3D portrait of my good friend's daughter. A long time ago I wanted to do that, but could not find the time. Last week we were together in a beautiful Whitecliff Park that is in West Vancouver. I put all my 3D equipment, my new digital camera Nikon D200 into the car and went to the Park.
I have to tell you that making 3D lenticular portraits is my old dream. That is not easy task but almost all people who see my 3D lenticular pictures ask me about making 3D Lenticular Portraits. And that is understandable because all people like to see on themselves and on their folks portraits. So, I know that if I will study how to make 3D lenticular portraits it will drastically grow my 3D photo business and my profit, of course.
The biggest problem in this task is taking the several pictures. We have to take into account that our camera has to move strictly horizontally and evenly. Moreover the subject that we are shooting must be motionless during shooting period. As regards the 3D portrait shooting the model does not have to blink when camera captures the picture and even breathes deeply, because the chest can move.
For 3D shooting we used the Tripod Add-on. This device is easy to use but it needs about 2 minutes to shoot 12 frames in standard mode, in other words when we stop the camera before each shot. Of course, it is difficult for people to stay absolutely motionless during this period of time. But even the small motion can blur our portrait. One of the way to reduce this effect is to take the pictures from big distance between camera and subject. But a big distance means that the subject becomes almost flat. Hence we have to show the depth of scene using some long additional subjects that cross the photographic scene. I described this method in previous newsletter, Issue 21 "How to make 3D portrait? (One of the way)". In this scene I used the beautiful staircase as a subject that adds a depth to the picture.
In this case I set a problem for myself to show the depth of human face and body. You have to understand that it was a real challenge for me and for my model. I wanted to research is it possible in principle for people, not for professional models, to stay motionless and being natural during shooting period of time. Of course, I endeavored to cut this period down. For that I bought the new digital SLR camera Nikon D200. That is a really fast camera that can shoot in continuous shooting mode with the speed up to 5 frames per second. That means this camera captures many frames while the shutter-release button is held down.
I setup the speed of continuous shooting as 3 frames per second, that means that 12 frames I will be able to take just for 4 seconds!!! Could you imagine it? JUST 4 SECONDS! Of course, it is better to use the Remote Control for shutter-release that helps not to shake the camera.
Now I can make a forecast that you have a question "How did you move the camera?" I found the easiest solution. I attached my camera to the Tripod Add-on and moved it by hand. But before I moved the slat with the holes in such way that the camera could move evenly without stoppage (picture 1).
That is it!
Since we were in the park I placed my model in front of wide tree. This tree I used as background. It cuts the unwanted space from the rear off to eliminate too big depth of scene. Camera modes:
- Distance between camera and model - about 2 meters
- Lens focal length - 55 mm
- Exposure time - 1/50 sec
- F number - F/5.6
Parameters of multishooting:
- Stereobase - about 30 cm
- Amount of frames - 46
- The time of shooting - 15 sec
You could see one of the real frame on picture 2.
During this shooting time the girl blinked once. But as I need just 12 frames I can easily miss this frame and use other frames where she looks just fine.
After that I had to enhance the frames using one of photo editing software. I used to use Ulead Photoimpact software for that. After that my photos looked much better (picture 3).
After that I used ViewsAligner software to align the frames by "zero point" and to crop them for proportion of 4 : 5 (this proportion I need for making 3D lenticular picture with size of 8"x10" (20x25 cm)).
After that I selected 12 frames and interlaced them using PhotoProjector software. Then I printed and laminated the picture as usual.
How to interlace and make 3D lenticular picture you could read in manual "How to make high quality lenticular 3D photos and Flip pictures for home and business".
When I saw this 3D portrait I could not refrain from saying "Wow!" Moreover all people who saw this 3D portrait at first time said "Wow!" too. Really! You could see the Gif-animation file below that is just a little bit looks like the real 3D picture (picture 4).
For this project we need:
- "PhotoProjector" interlacing software.
- "ViewsAligner" software.
- "MultiStereoBase" software.
- Lenticular sheet 8"x10" (20x25 cm) with lenticules run parallel to long side.
- "Ulead PhotoImpact" photo editing software.
- Tripod Add-on for multishooting.
- Digital photo camera with remote control.
- Steady tripod.
I wish you to make many beautiful 3D lenticular portraits using this techniques!
"3D PhotoPro" is a trademark of 3D Photo Productions.