Taking the frame sets using Motorized multishooting device
Dear 3D Friend,
In previous article you read about our NEW Motorized Multishooting Device. In this article you can read about practical application of this device. I would like to tell you how I took a portrait.
First of all, we have to compose a photographic scene. I wanted to shoot my son with guitar. I placed background with dark red material and high chair in front of it. I asked my son to take his guitar and sit down on a chair (picture 1).
After composition of photographic scene we have to illuminate it. I do not want to teach you about scene illumination. There are many good books that perfectly explain it. But I want to pay your attention that with this device we can use continuous lighting only. Unfortunately no one flash can work with photo camera in "burst mode" because the flash needs several seconds for recharging after each flashing. Besides nobody likes to look at repeatedly flashing lights. Hence it is impossible for your model to stay motionless during multishooting.
After composition and lighting the scene we have to place Motorized Multishooting Device and setup it correctly.
The steps order for working with Motorized Multishooting Device
- Select the distance between the camera and main subject, place the tripod with Motorized Multishooting Device on that distance. In my case the distance between camera and subject was about 3.5 meters.
- Select the right height of camera and raise the tripod (picture 2).
- Attach the mounts of Motorized Multishooting Device to tripod's legs using the clips (picture 3). That gives a rigid support for Motorized Multishooting Device and it helps to eliminate a camera inclination during motion. The mounts have a telescopic construction, like regular tripod legs, so it is possible to setup them to any height.
- Decide what way for multishooting you want to use - Parallel multishooting method or Convergence multishooting method. Please, read about these ways in previous article "Motorized Multishooting Device for taking the frame sets!"
- If you decide to use Parallel multishooting method set a pointer to "infinity". If you decide to use Convergence multishooting method set a pointer to the right distance (picture 4).
- Attach your DSLR camera to Motorized Multishooting Device (picture 5) and select the right vertical angle for pointing to main subject.
- Select the right zoom of your lens. Then moving your camera to the left and to the right make sure that you can see whole of your photographic scene through viewfinder of your camera.
- Select the right stereobase using MultiStereoBase software and the ruler on Motorized Multishooting Device (picture 6).
- Place the camera at center of Motorized Multishooting Device and focus your camera in Manual focus mode.
- Select right exposure. Do not forget to switch the camera to Manual exposure mode.
- Switch the camera to Burst or Continuous shooting mode.
- Connect Remote release to your camera. I prefer to use wired Remote release, not infrared, because infrared remote release is not very reliable.
- Connect Motorized Multishooting Device to power supply (picture 7).
- Select the right speed of your camera motion on Control device (picture 8). Switching of moving direction has to be in central position, that means motor stops and your camera is immovable.
- Move your camera to the left position. Switch the Switching of moving direction to the right, your camera starts to move to the right, and simultaneously turn on Remote release of your camera. The camera starts moving and multishooting.
- You do not have to worry that your camera can fall when it reaches the end of slider. The camera will stop automatically because the motor will be turned off by end switch (picture 6).
After that you have to take the memory card out of digital camera, put it to Card reader and save all of your frames into hard drive on your computer. After that you have to enhance the frames, using one of photo editing software, interlace and make 3D lenticular picture.
Please see an anaglyph image that was made using my frames (picture 9).
For this photo session I used a digital camera Nikon D200.
Exposure time - 1/50 sec.
F-number - f/6.3.
ISO speed rating - ISO 400.
The speed of continuous shooting - 5 frames per second.
Amount of frames - 52.
You see that I shot 52 frames during about 10 seconds. My son kept motionless during this period of time without any problems.
I made much more frames that I needed for making high quality 3D lenticular pictures. Actually 20 frames are enough. So, your shooting time could be as low as 4 seconds! So, we will be able to shoot 3D portraits without problems.
Conclusion: Creating 3D lenticular portraits is REALITY!
That is a huge benefit that we can add to our 3D photo business!
If you have any questions regarding this device please do not hesitate to ask me .
"3D PhotoPro" is a trademark of 3D Photo Productions.